There is almost no public display of affection. We'll go to Friday prayers in a leading mosque, consider the challenges confronting Iran's youth, enjoy the hospitality of a family dinner and survive the crazy Tehran traffic before experiencing the tranquility of rural life and meeting joyful school kids on a field trip. This village offers a glimpse at a busy bakery. The numbers, however, are the same as those used in the Arab world. Man: "Xoda" means "God," "hafez" means "keeper.". This medallion symbolized humankind finding enlightenment in the one Zoroastrian god. Under its colorful dome, lattice windows illuminate intricate mosaic work. Woman: Yes, of course. As I settled into the plane flying us between two Iranian towns, the pilot announced, "In the name of God the compassionate and merciful, we welcome you to this flight. As the sun goes down the people of Esfahan also gather in Imam square as if to savor the beauty of their city at twilight. The smaller mosque was built for the women of the shah's harem. the man, not thus bound, remains unaware of this tale. Each rough roadside town we pass gives an insight into work-a-day Iranian rural life. Rick: If I want say "hello," what do I say? Rick: Now I cannot shake your hand? They first met here twenty years ago and became friends. But in Iran unfortunately the religious and the politics is mixed with each other. Terms of Service | Privacy. We've been invited into a fairly wealthy family's home for dinner and a look at the modern domestic scene. After 25 years of the Shah's rule, the Islamic Revolution threw him out and brought Ayatollah Khomeini back from exile. Many major streets actually intersect without the help of traffic lights. And all this complexity is the result of a long and tumultuous history. [Woman reading poem in Farsi (translation below)], The links of the beloved's hair form a chain of suffering I'm guessing Rick Steves's purpose in his Iran special and continued discussion of his experience there is more focused on his audience's awareness and understanding than it is him suggesting that they all pick up and plan a trip to Iran. The portico features twenty slender and stately wooden columns. His take on wardrobe said that women must wear a hijab (head scarf) but not a chador (over-robe). At the "Nations' Gate" dignitaries from the 28 nations subjugated by Persia entered "we're not worthy"-style to pay their taxes and humble respect to the emperor. It's different…but it seems to work. While I hoped to find some non-conformity, the vibe here made BYU seem like Berkeley. Woman: It's not common to each other. Seyed: Difference is very simple. Any interaction between men and women seemed very discrete. The collection starts in prehistoric times, back when nomadic hunters were becoming farmers. This high-end confectionary shop gives a glimpse of the taste and lifestyles of North Tehran citizens. And the conflict continues. It believes the Western media has given Iran an unfair image. As the personification of the Islamic Revolution, he symbolized deliverance from the economic oppression and Western decadence of the Shah. Hello, I am going to Iran in October and I just have a few questions. In this recurring scene, a lion kills a bull symbolizing spring killing winter and bringing new life. Rick: Yeah, it's true, it's actually true. Next to the columned palace is the throne hall marked by its distinctive collection of mighty doorways. He did use oppressive tactics. Leaving Tehran was quick and easy with its impressive system of highways. I'm looking for a 15 to 20 day tour to Iran for a solo 67 year old male. European Cruising 101 Tehran's thriving subway moves over a million people a day. Very difficult. Rick: So this would be lamb mostly. That one? He built it to celebrate the 2500th anniversary of the Persian Empire and all the mighty Persian kings who came before him. In the 20th century, with the discovery of its vast oil reserves, Iran became entwined with the West. For me, this is the most magnificent ancient sight between the Holy Land and India. Rick Steves explores Tehran, the Islamic Republic of Iran's bustling capital city. Each little visit left me with indelible and often tasty memories. Rick: All the different Christians have one bible, what about Shiite's and Sunni's? So for Americans we are a very religious people but we make the government and the church apart you know? Dating from the 1970s, it's one of the former Shah of Iran's many extravaganzas. Iran is dotted with weathered remnants of its rich history. In this travel lecture, Rick Steves describes his experience traveling through Iran and filming his one-hour TV special, "Rick Steves' Iran." Its university is the oldest, biggest and most prestigious in the land. Dear Rick, thank you for going to Iran and bringing these images back. Others say it was a pre-emptive strike to stop the USA from orchestrating a military coup designed to overthrow their theocracy and put the shah back in power. Our flight comes in at 2:30 am. Iranians are not Arabs and they don't speak Arabic. Guide: Nooshe jan. For me, very difficult. His trip to Iran seems to be more politically motivated than travel industry related. Scandinavia The unrest led to crackdowns by the shah's forces that tortured and killed thousands. What are my hopes? And in Farsi, the book starts where our books end. If you look on the right at the link I'll provide at the end of this it will say "Rick Steves' Lecture Series" just click on that and it has two lectures lined up in a row, one on travel and politics and then the who lecture on Iran. Today, the Iranian government recognizes the value and the fragility of its heritage and it's working to preserve it. Iran's rich history goes back millennia, to the days when Persepolis was home to "the king of kings." And they've shared memorial meals together here at the tombs of their lost sons ever since. Another local treasure is so typical of this land that the words just fit together: Persian carpets. Guide: This is Rick. Of you’re comparing Iran to isolated, war torn Soviet Block states, then you REALLY should go to Iran as a tourist first and not with a cameraman because you need a LOT of acclimation. But still completely different language. After visiting Jerusalem, we harvest olives near Ramallah, follow pilgrims to the site of Jesus' birth in Bethlehem, approach Abraham's tomb — as both Jews and Muslims do — in Hebron, join friends for dinner, and bob in the Dead Sea. Rick: Might you meet a boy down here? Then in about 500 BC, with the great kings Darius and Xerxes, the mighty Persian Empire was established. OK? The script looks Arabic to me, but I learned — like the language — it's Farsi. With tender dancers, flowing hair, and dashing moustaches, the sumptuous richness of this culture comes across in these fine paintings. As for myself, strike me by the sword in her full view Khomeini gave millions of Iranians hope. You'll find people with Greek, Arab, Turk, Mongol, Kurdish and Azerbaijani heritage. Europe for Foodies And using technology from the days of David and Goliath, a farmer slings a rock to frighten the birds off his barley. To cross town quickly, motorcycle taxis are a blessing. I never considered the value of knowing if it's a boy or a girl at the door. My first impression: wild drivers. Locals say it's like "going to Chechnya.". Rick: Oh, that takes me back to dinner last night, yeah…. About people? I didn't expect to find it here in Iran, but boy, they've got it. Whether on a plane, or simply walking the streets of any city here, it's clear that Iran is ruled by a theocracy. They may have a president, but the top religious official, a man called "the supreme leader" has the ultimate authority. Oil flowed easy and he was a friend of western oil companies. Girls: No, no worries. Iran's rich history goes back millennia, to the days when Persepolis was home to "the king of kings." Back on the throne, the shah allowed Western oil companies to run Iran's oil industry again. Hi, I'm Rick Steves — in what just might be the most surprising and fascinating land I've ever visited. Like a vast department store, the bazaar has different sections. Rick: Ohhh, thank you… oh you guys! Dropping into this book store and surveying its selection, the Persian passion for poetry became clear…. Man: Do you like to take a picture? He enjoyed summers in this one until the late 1970s. They generally spoke some English. While it's weathered wave after wave of conquerors, the essence of today's Iranian culture is still rooted in that first Persian Empire from 2,500 years ago. Girls: Yes. Germany & Austria Rick: Tell me, what is this for? In Esfahan, everything seems to radiate from the grand Imam Square — it's one of the largest in the world. Rick: Good Sunni, good Shiite die, do they both go to heaven? Esfahan, as a religious center, is an ideal place to try to better understand complexities like these. Man: You must say: "Al salaam a'alaykum. Iran is ruled by a theocracy. And, just across the stream, stands a caravansary — a road-side inn going back to the Middle Ages and the days of Marco Polo. Lions, a symbol of might, represented both the king and the power of the seasons. Iranians come here to both connect with their heritage and to celebrate it. Rick: Hey, look at this! Then I learned that most of its treasures were destroyed or looted by invaders and much of what survived was taken away to the great museums in the West. Bye bye. All the portraits and all the dates are from the 1980s. Before I know it my plate is filled with fish, kebabs, two kinds of rice, eggplant, and tomatoes…the conversation is as lively as at any home I've visited in Europe. Then we came across the village of Abyaneh nestled in its valley. So that's what they call a bill for the tourists…a "Khomeini.". Đã xảy ra lỗi. Some Iranians claim the hostage crisis was a way to radicalize the Islamic revolution and put the hard-liners in power. Seeing the shafts of light swirling with ancient dust, it's easy to imagine the smell of cook fires so many centuries ago and the cacophony of sounds as travelers took shelter within these walls. Maybe we're all just struggling to defend the moral fabric of our respective societies. Even today — 2500 years after their deaths — they're reminding us of their great power. Rick: Thank you, your heart is kind, too. Girls: No, we don't meet a boy usually. The religion had three essential tenets: right thinking, right saying, and right doing. Woman: No, because here it's a religious society. This one, made in the Ayatollah Khomeini's city of Khomayn, took one master weaver 14 months to complete. Rick: What do you study? While relatively uncluttered with commercial advertising, there are plenty of billboards and murals and they pack a powerful propaganda message… Some religious murals are uplifting — this one is a Shiite scripture claiming; the most caring help is to give good advice. Guide: Yeah, mostly lamb, mostly lamb. That Revolution and the Ayatollah established the Islamic Republic which rules to this day. Streets were lined with cheap, colorful snack bars and inviting ice cream shops. Rick: So when I have a meat dish in a restaurant I will have this spice, all mixed together. Man 1: Oh, you're from the United States…OK. This scene may be chic, but I heard that the real partying goes on in the privacy of people's homes. Here the shah and his troops quell a revolt against his rule by the Uzbekis. Actually, we found that the easiest way to get a smile was to tell people where we're from. In fact women outnumber Iranian men in both universities and in many respected professions. Like most Americans, I know almost nothing about Iran. Is this good? In this episode, we explore three historic capitals of Iran: Persepolis, with its splendid monuments; Shiraz, with the tombs of Iran's most beloved poets; and Isfahan, with its extraordinary mosques and endearing people. Woman: Yes, it's a law in Iran. Woman: Man. Women are perfectly welcome. IMO Rick's success has allowed him to become more politically active. Iran is nothing like Cuba or Nicaragua, or Saudi Arabia etc. Travel with Rick on this video guide up the Nile River in Egypt and find out what to do on your next trip. Along the entire route, every 30 miles or so — that would be a day's journey by camel — there was a rest stop providing a safe and secure overnight for the caravans. Its main boulevard is a delight giving the visitor a slice-of-life look at today's commerce. I will go like this…can I take a picture with you and me? Rick: All of you are chemistry! Can anyone recommend a tour operator for a small group tour or a driver/guide for a solo tour? So we'll look into the camera and we'll say "salaam" and we'll say "people to people". Time and time again we experienced how, in Islam, visitors are considered a "gift of God" and treated as such with generous hospitality — and tonight, that includes a wonderful meal. This spring, my Istanbul-based tour guides planned an educational tour to Iran and extended an open invitation to our tour guides and staff. Rick: But these differences seem small, but still, many people are dying, and I read in the news Sunni fighting Shiite. I was impressed by how the people we met were curious and eager to talk. Rick: Girl? It's a smoggy, mile high metropolis. That was a territorial thing, and also ambitions of a dictator, Saddam Hussein. Woman: It's the main problem and it's the main point of that distance between people and government. Thank you… America and Iran, we can be friends. Skylines are not punctuated with minarets; I barely heard a call to prayer. Here, as in other Iranian universities, students enjoy a higher education paid for by the government. This is an important issue with the people of Iran. For an American, it'd be like having Montecello, Cape Canaveral, and Mount Rushmore all rolled into one magnificent sight. Well it depends: After Mohammad — about 1,390 years ago, after Christ — two thousand and some years ago. Woman: Xodâhâfez. And we're working within the limits it sets as we explore this complex society. ". We found the people in Esfahan were as friendly and willing to talk to us as they were in the countryside. And the flip side of fear is understanding. Rick: For example, the people are not angry with America. Every Iranian school kid knows the date: 1953. The constitution does allow for other religions as long as they don't offend Islam. Rick: Nice to meet you. While I find some of them offensive, I see in these murals the fear and the spine of a people whose values are threatened. Woman: Khomeini. Wow! Like cities throughout Iran, Esfahan has a cemetery dedicated to the estimated 200,000 Iranian martyrs — as anyone who dies in a religious or national war is called — of the Iran/Iraq war. I leave impressed more by what we have in common than by our differences. (photo: Rick Steves) January 2009 Two young Iranian parents smiled at me, showing mock desperation as their little boy and girl eagerly dragged them into a shop famous for … Still, even with the constraints of dress and behavior, I sensed a confidence and youthful vitality. And this one glorifies Hezbollah fighters and their struggle with Israel which many here consider Americas' 51st state. Iranian oil may again flow westward. Girls: OK, we may meet a boy, but we are not supposed to find a boy. Rick: So we are learning very much when we come to Iran. Rick: So I can go like…Salaam? The young, privileged, and cosmopolitan manage to be quite fashionable. Even though covered up, women expertly utilize their feminine charms. Everyone singing: Happy Birthday to you… Newsreel: Persia; At the turn of the century, a poor agricultural country, rich only in legend and undeveloped natural resources…. Across the farmers field atop a cliff sits the ruins of an ancient city. This isn't just any ice cream sandwich — saffron, rosewater, and pistachios…a Persian specialty. By Rick Steves. While modesty is enforced, vanity is not out of bounds. If you're traveling with a tour company, I'd ask their most recent advice. His lyrical poems are noted for their beauty. Sayed: Just consider that many nations have fought each other during the course of history, not all of it has been because of religion. This mosque's cantor is happy to demonstrate the splendid acoustics of its 17th century dome. Rick: Salaam. You know, all over Europe you've got this passegiata / paseo — people are out during the magic hour. Still 10,000 guards served at the pleasure of the emperor. Rick: And all of you guys together. I found their awareness of our camera fascinating — women seemed to sense when it was near and would adjust their scarves to make sure their hair was properly covered. Newsreel: …oil was struck at last and drilling commenced…, During World War II, Iran was a vital oil resource for the Allies. After a few hours we reach Esfahan. Young educated people are internet savvy and well-informed about the West. And the main industry seems to be selling dried fruits. Rick: What do you study? The days when the shah's men boasted that mini-skirts in Tehran were shorter than those in Paris are clearly long gone. This felt like a particularly easy-going mosque — in keeping with Khomeini's image among his people. Every country, including our own, limits access to foreign film crews. Then, as today, Iranians celebrated their new year on the 21st of March, the first day of spring. Do you like to take a picture together? Rick: Is this the beginning of the book here? And Persepolis has been in ruins ever since. What is this?< With the profits, he modernized the country. Rick: Someday you must meet a boy. Finally, with the establishment of a Third Persian Empire in the 16th century, this culture enjoyed a renaissance. This disturbing mix of politics and religion apparently results from a deep seated resentment of Western culture imposed on their world. Man: I wish that the relationship between Iran and America become good. I found that, like in my country, there's a tension between modern and traditional, liberal and conservative, secular and religious. Rather than the impression I've long held…of a menacing ideologue, here he's considered a sage — and a champion of traditional values. But his materialistic decadence and pro-Western policies offended Iran's conservatives and alienated religious and political groups. That's when the CIA engineered a coup that over threw the democratically elected prime minister Mossadegh. Dear Rick, as an American-Iranian living in your home country for 30 years, I thank you so very much for bringing just a few nice things about my beloved country, Iran. Today, over two decades later, the cemetery is still very much alive with mourning loved ones. In this travel lecture, Rick Steves describes his experience traveling through Iran and filming his one-hour TV special, "Rick Steves' Iran." To a Western viewpoint, the dress code imposed on women seems disrespectful. Iceland But segregation is the rule. It functions like a big shopping mall. Two wheels are faster than four. Rick: You think that's — Imagine, this fortified complex providing a safe refuge for the night — complete with restaurant, good place to park the camel, market, entertainment, and a great place to catch up on the latest news. At the edge of Esfahan on a windy bluff stand the well-worn remains of the Atashkedeh Fire Temple. Straddling its river, Esfahan is famous for its marvelous bridges which date to the 17th century. And today in this predominately Muslim society a small Zoroastrian community still survives and worships freely. Guide: The same as bon appétit. Locals believe that the color pattern of the tiles: light Turkish blue and dark Persian blue — is calming and contributes to spiritual healing. Woman: Yes, I like to be. He is revered and his poetry is still enormously influential on the Iranian people. But there are perplexing differences: women worship in a separate section; soldiers stand guard among the worshippers — a reminder of the tensions within today's Islamic world; … and the seemingly innocuous yellow banner in the background proclaims death to Israel. Switzerland Anywhere foreigners went, signs were bilingual: Farsi for locals…and English for everyone else. Being here, they are exceeded. Traveling here, it felt like a paradox — it's contradictions difficult to understand. To me, these young people felt like the future of Iran. As far as many parents are concerned here, it's family values. Travel as a Political Act, England & Wales Iran, twice the size of France, sits in an increasingly important corner of Asia — surrounded by Turkey, Iraq, Pakistan, and Afghanistan. It's a bustling scene as entertaining for its people watching as it is for its window-shopping. Note on the script: This episode of Rick Steves' Europe was created with footage from the one-hour television special, "Rick Steves' Iran: Yesterday and Today." I was struck by the elegance and grace of Islamic Persia at its zenith. Then things changed…, Oil, again poses a threat to peace and the Middle East again becomes a trouble spot as Iran's vast petroleum reserves aroused nationalists…. Way back in the 5th century, the eternal flame of what many consider the first monotheistic religion, Zoroastrianism, burned from this mountain top temple. In this episode, Rick Steves explores three historic capitals of Iran: Persepolis, with its splendid monuments; Shiraz, with the tombs of Iran's most beloved poets; and Esfahan, with its extraordinary mosques and endearing people. Essentially: the king is empowered by god. This austere yet holy mosque was dedicated to the Muslim equivalent of a saint. Rick: Man. Thanks to Rich Steves for this beautiful and heartful introduction into the magnificant Iranian culture and today living. I'd always dreamed of visiting Persepolis and it didn't disappoint. Rick: And you must cover your hair. Girls: On the river? Rick: Yeah. Yet others are troubling and hateful — this one condemns what's considered American Imperialism with skulls and dropping bombs rather than stars and stripes. Iran's main highway, slices through the empty landscape, linking the country's leading cities like a lifeline. Granted, there are no easy solutions to the problems confronting our two nations. Despite the conservative atmosphere, we found students friendly, curious, and willing to chat. OK, merci. Woman: Yes, they are like friends to each other. I don't think so…I'll give you…Oh, Khomeini? All of this emboldened a revolutionary movement and burned into the national psyche a fear of American meddling in internal Iranian affairs. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, These murals mix religion, patriotism, and a heritage of dealing with foreign intervention. Even with a guide or tour, I'd also want another resource in hand, such as the Lonely Planet guidebook (most recent edition published 2012). At the time Persia was so mighty, no fortifications were needed. Rick: That's what people say: If you want to eat well in Iran, make some friends. The local ethnicity reflects the turmoil of this country's long history. That first Persian Empire was conquered by Alexander the Great from Greece. There was no real student union center, just a small commons in each department…with a snack bar for men and an adjacent one for women. Same verses, same writing. Chicago. Even though the mosque can accommodate up to a million worshippers on special days, it's undergoing a major expansion. For me, the village highlight was meeting its people. This encounter provided an opportunity for a quick language lesson. Woman: And that's the main problem. While the United States lives with the scars of Viet Nam, a generation of Iranians live with the scars of their war with Iraq — a war in which Iran, with one quarter of our population, suffered many times the deaths. Seyed: They have got the same book, same holy book, it's called Koran. In the 1980's, one million casualties between Sunni Iraq and Shiite Iran. see our FAQ. While our governments may be at odds, the people we met were consistently curious, generous and friendly. Rick: I have many friends in America that are curious about Iran, what can you tell them? The city, with a million and a half people, is a showcase of Persian splendor. The vast complex is a series of royal palaces built on a massive elevated terrace. With its reflecting pool and fine gardens, the palace gives you a sense of Persia's 16th and 17th century golden age. Video: Watch "Egypt's Nile, Alexandria, and Luxor," an episode of the Rick Steves' Europe TV show. Rick: How many? But after surviving my first day: I realized they were experts at keeping things moving. Rick: OK. And I can shake his hand? As history has taught us, no empire lasts forever. Gardens sprawl out from the poets' tombs with tranquil corners provided to ponder the mystical brilliance of these prophets of love. Rick: So you are a modern young woman? Religious offering boxes are on every street corner. They are based on a predetermined design and usually have floral patterns. Rick: About the people in Iran. Rick: Nooshe jan, nooshe jan. Even in our rushed modern world, Iranians take time to slow down and be meditative. Those who remain are old and seem to have an abundance of time on their hands. The palace of Xerxes is called the Columned Palace because it once had 72 columns. I love it in the last hour of the day when everybody is out and here in Esfahan it's down to the river bank. But wear that helmet. The throne hall was used mainly for receptions for military commanders and representatives of all the subjugated nations of the Empire. We produced the TV show to understand and humanize Iran. Shiraz is famous as the home of beloved Persian poets. Aside from minor changes, the second half of the special's script, below, serves as the script for this episode (starting with the section on Esfahan). Rick Steves’ Iran: Join Rick as he explores the most surprising and fascinating land he’s ever visited: Iran. Girls: Thanks. That's why Sunni Muslims, Christians and Jews are tolerated but Bahai's (whose prophet, Baha u llah, came in the 19th century) are not. The entrance shows the geometric motif the Persians were famous for. We're dropping into a shop for a little lesson. Here on the riverbank, I was struck by the tranquility of the scene, filled with people who seemed to be thoroughly enjoying life's simple blessings. a sidelong glance from those eyes will full ransom make. Rick: That's a very interesting point. Struggling to understand the difference, I asked our local guide, Mr. Seyed Rehim Bathaei, to explain. I'm Rick Steves. Note on the script: This episode of Rick Steves' Europe was created with footage from the one-hour television special, "Rick Steves' Iran: Yesterday and Today." Century dome were Shiite, what 's the difference and pistachios…a Persian specialty 5,000 mile long trade route China! Time that, with fine brick work, survives from when this region was in its valley clearly long.. 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